There’s something special about visiting popular hotels and destinations just outside of peak summer season, when the weather is still ideal, crowds are at a minimum, and availability and choice are more plentiful. So when our partner at Abadía Retuerta suggested dates for a visit that not only fit the bill but coincided with the very start of harvest season, you better believe I replied muy rápido!
If you’re unfamiliar with Abadía Retuerta, let me bring you up to speed. This luxury hotel, winery, and spa is exceptional in every way. Located less than two hours from Madrid, in the Duero River valley, the journey itself is part of the experience. The landscape gradually transforms, greenery emerges, and vineyards eventually surround you. The arrival to the 12th-century abbey, now a luxury hotel, is nothing short of impressive. Stepping inside, you’re immediately enveloped by a sense of history and tranquility.
A three-Michelin-Key property, the hotel remains faithful to its Romanesque heritage while seamlessly introducing modern furniture and art amongst the antiques. I was particularly delighted to discover original Mirós in every room, offering a contrast to the impressive gothic surroundings elsewhere in the hotel. As I soon learned, the collection extends well beyond the guest rooms, with more than 700 works on display, ranging from modern art to Renaissance masterpieces.
With just 30 rooms and several dining options, including the Michelin-starred Refectorio, the atmosphere feels wonderfully intimate. After traveling from the States, our small group was more than happy to settle outdoors, taking in the views over the grounds with a much-anticipated glass of the estates Tempranillo and a platter of Ibérico jamón.
Over the next few days, we immersed ourselves in everything this remarkable property had to offer. We explored the organic gardens, which occupy the former monks’ spaces, toured the estates vineyards, and learned about the region’s celebrated grape varieties. Best of all, our timing gave us a rare glimpse into the winemaking process as we witnessed the season’s harvest firsthand.
Back at the hotel, fashion shows along the impressive cloister corridors set the stage for memorable dinners, followed by nightcaps in the atmospheric Gothic bar. We balanced the indulgences with sound baths and restorative time at the spa, where wine is incorporated into treatments in wonderfully unexpected ways. A spa sommelier, anyone? We also ventured into neighboring Valladolid for a little tapas hopping before returning to luxuriate in our bathtubs overlooking the vineyards.
Every space at Abadía Retuerta feels unique and intentional. There’s a certain magic in the air, from sunrise to the spectacular sunsets, accompanied by the chirping of the local winged residents. You can’t help but imagine the centuries of history these walls have witnessed. We left feeling incredibly fortunate to have experienced such a bucket-list property.
After one last glass of wine in the Madrid airport lounge (as one does) and a quick flight to Mallorca, we were ready for a completely different experience. We traded vineyards and dramatic 12th-century surroundings for sunshine, sea, and a brand-new hotel: Gran Hotel Margalida. The contrast between the two couldn’t have been more marvelous.
Our arrival was warm and welcoming, with genuine smiles that immediately set the tone. Perched on the cliffs above the charming village of Banyalbufar, every room faces the horizon, delivering sweeping views of the Mediterranean. And really, that’s what this hotel is all about. Situated on the island’s west coast, sunsets are an event in themselves, and we eagerly anticipated our first. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint!
The boutique hotel’s signature scent is by Loewe, while its signature color is the happiest shade of yellow, appearing everywhere from pillows to plates. These thoughtful touches bring personality to the contemporary spaces and establish an unmistakably joyful atmosphere from the moment you arrive.
During our stay, we practiced yoga on the swim platform at sunset and cooked pink prawn paella with Chef Joan Escalas beneath a canopy of trees at midday. After a particularly harrowing hike in the Tramuntana Mountains, where we found ourselves navigating cliff edges and scrambling over fallen trees, we decided we’d earned a little indulgence: rosé, poolside popsicles, and some much-needed spa time.
The hotel offers several dining venues, and every meal was memorable. Evenings unfolded at an unhurried pace, each feeling like a special occasion. The menus celebrated seasonality, with wonderful courses guided by the catch of the day.
Our final evening was particularly memorable and provided a fitting send-off. As we gathered, a dramatic lightning storm rolled across the sea, creating a spectacular final impression of Mallorca. We slept soundly that night, reflecting on an incredible adventure through two entirely different, yet equally unforgettable, destinations. You can follow along on more of my trip memories in my Instagram highlights at @theliltornado
